Paper Doll
Toxic Productivity Part 2: How to Change Your Mindset
Last week, in Toxic Productivity in the Workplace and What Comes Next, we addressed systemic toxic productivity, when the workplace demands a seemingly endless series of achievements, undue (and unreciprocated) loyalty, and more of one’s heart, soul, and time than is reasonable. We also touched on the concept of personal toxic productivity, or productivity dysmorphia.
Going forward, we’re going to look at what we can do to give ourselves some grace and separate our productivity from our identity. Today, we’re focused on changing the way we think about ourselves and what we accomplish.
But first, let’s look at three stories that illustrate what toxic productivity is not.
WHAT TOXIC PRODUCTIVITY IS NOT
Story #1: At the end of April, my delightful colleague Linda Samuels wrote a blog post entitled How to Successfully Let Go Now Even If It’s Only For Today. In that post, she described how she enjoys getting things accomplished and often feels compelled to do so. She had a list of what she intended to accomplish on that particular Sunday, but was beckoned by the beautiful spring wearther and instead enjoyed a day in nature with her husband. In my blog comment, I gently teased her:
LOL, I’m glad you let go, but I think I see your problem right away, Linda. You had a to-do list for a Sunday. Sunday is the weekend. You’re not supposed to DO anything on the weekends except eat, play, and be entertained in the first place! 😉 No housework, no work-work, just enjoying yourself. I’m glad you let go; now we need to help you plan letting go as your weekend task so you don’t even try to work!
Linda is not an example of toxic productivity. She’s self-driven, but she also knows how and when to let go and grant herself buffer time to enjoy life.
Story #2: Another colleague (we’ll call her X), is a real go-getter. She had been working to create a virtual course, but has not yet made it go live because she’s so busy with her client load and is booked through the end of the summer. Disappointed that she hasn’t completed this combined educational/marketing tool, we’ve pointed out that the whole purpose of making people aware of one’s expertise is to get clients, and she already has more clients than spaces on the calendar! The girl is in serious demand!
Meanwhile, a few months back, X contracted COVID. Luckily, she had very mild symptoms, but of course she was quarantining. With no work to do, she headed outside and spent her quarantine weeding her garden! (Apparently, X didn’t know that the only acceptable reaction to being ill is to mope, wear fuzzy socks, and intersperse reading trashy magazines with bingeing guilty pleasure TV!)
X is also not an example of toxic productivity. She’s a product of a particular cultural background that especially prizes hard work and efficiency, but she also enjoys vacationing with her husband and entertaining friends around her pool.
Story #3: My BFF is a full-on, leaning-in career woman now that her children are all grown, but I recall a time when, for the 43rd conversation in a row, I was giving her a hard time about working so hard. She was raising four kids, volunteering in many realms, and though she had a bad case of bronchitis, was — as I was speaking with her on the phone — making cupcakes for a school bake sale!
As only a BFF can push, I pointed out that 1) she was sick and did not need to be doing anything for anyone else, 2) she could have sent her husband to the store to buy cupcakes, and 3) nobody wanted her bronchitis-germy cupcakes anyway! (I’m sure my voice went up three octaves by the time I got to the end of my diatribe.)
If I didn’t know better, I might think my BFF might be an example of toxic productivity. But she’s actually an example of systemic expectations of mental load, emotional labor, and American women unintentionally embracing the societal view that a woman’s value is based on what she does for others. (For superb writing on how to counter this, check out Emotional Labor: Why A Woman’s Work Is Never Done and What To Do About It, by my colleagues Regina Lark and Judith Kolberg.)
Toxic Productivity In the Workplace and What Comes Next
WHAT IS TOXIC PRODUCTIVITY?
Productivity is a good thing, right? You’re hitting the goals you (or your team, or your boss) set, you’re working effectively (on the right things) and efficiently (zooming steadily toward your accomplishments). What could be bad?
Toxic productivity is when that drive to be productive is taken to unhealthy extremes. In a toxic work environment, employees lose motivation and self-esteem due to the external forces created by employer policies and/or management, as immediately recognizable in the now-classic Office Space.
However, toxic productivity can also stem from unhealthy expectations for what personal productivity should look like, and this can be driven by the workplace, by parental and educational influences since childhood, and even by genetic makeup.
Self-generated toxic productivity reads as workaholism, a drive not only to be productive at all times (and sometimes at all costs), but to appear productive at all times. In the past year, it has been called productivity dysmorphia, an expression which if not coined, was certainly popularized by Anna Codrea-Rado. (We’ll dig deeper into her article next time!)
Because it is the impulse for productivity as a process, rather than the achievement of the end result, that characterizes a sense of success, for someone suffering toxic productivity, there’s no sense of satisfaction. For the workaholic, there’s always an aching pit in the stomach that the end result could have been better or that they could have accomplished more. There’s no joy in crossing the finish line, because there’s always another finish line.
Those dealing with workplace-driven toxic productivity may fear losing seniority status or career security if productivity decreases. But for those whose identities are tied to what they have accomplished, self-esteem is often derived from getting stuff done, so it can be hard to find a personal off-switch. Work/life balance — a dubious concept in the first place — is hard to achieve when you identify your value in life by what you achieve at work.
For those whose identities are tied to what they have accomplished, self-esteem is often derived from getting stuff done, so it can be hard to find a personal off-switch. Share on XAre you asking, “What’s the problem?” Focusing on productivity means high achievement, and if your sense of self is measured by what you achieve, how will you ever get off that roller coaster? How will you ever stop chasing the high of “having done the thing” you set out to do? When do you get to breathe?
If you always feel that you should be getting more done, you may feel guilty when you’re not producing — and this can include needing that sense of accomplishment through housework, hobbies, or any competitive impulse where the drive eclipses the enjoyment.
If you feel more and more worn out rather than energized by whatever you do, that’s toxic. And like any poison, it will drain you of your vitality.
An obsession with productivity can not only lead to a lack of productivity, but can eventually cause leisure sickness, where during your downtime, with family, or while on vacation, you’re unable to relax and enjoy the moment, as you may become disconnected from the idea of existing without working toward a productive end.
Today’s post is going to focus on toxic productivity in the workplace, and what’s being done to countermand it. Next week, we’re going to dig deeper and look at how we can target toxic productivity and productivity dysmorphia at the individual and societal levels to be productivite in a more healthy way.
TOXIC PRODUCTIVITY AROUND THE WORLD
Have you ever heard of 996? China made the news last year because many workers were on a 996 schedule, working 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., six days a week!
Meanwhile, in Japan, there’s a corporate culture that leads to workers performing up to 80 hours of overtime, often unpaid, each month. It’s called Karōshi, “death by overwork,” and it’s marked by an extreme performance of company loyalty, both on and off the clock. Employees, legally granted twenty vacation days per year, regularly fail to take half of them.
For what it’s worth, this overwork doesn’t help Japan’s productivity, which falls behind the United States, France, Germany, Italy, the UK, and Canada.
Lest you think that this is only a problem in the Far East, be assured that this kind of toxic productivity is alive and not-so-well right here in the United States. For example, according to Project Time Off, in 2016, 55% of Americans did not use all of their paid time off. That’s 658 million unused vacation days, one-third of which did not roll over to the next calendar year or get reimbursed financially. Poof. That time off just disappeared, and the dollar value of that time went into company coffers.
In 2019, the last pre-pandemic year on record, 768 million vacation days went unused — and less than a quarter of Americans used all of their available paid vacation! Oddly, a 2019 study showed that one in three Americans would be willing to take a cut in pay in order to get unlimited vacation days. This is pretty puzzling. Workers want more vacation, but they’re unwilling or unable to take all of the paid days they have!
Why might this be? A recent TikTok (sigh, yes, I’ve become one of those people) showed an imagined conversation. A representative of Human Resources was cheerleading the advent of summer work hours, where staff would be allowed to leave at 3 p.m. on Fridays. Dubious, the worker asked if workload expectations would be scaled back accordingly.
The “boss” character noted that staff would be encouraged to work late on Thursday evenings to make up the workload. After the employee pointed out the irony, the boss character noted that, simply put, they wanted both the same level of productivity and credit for offering work/life balance.
The grim humor aside, this is the reality for most workers, and it’s not just about vacation hours. More and more, I’m seeing articles about “sad desk salads,” popularized by the Jessica Grosse novel of the same name.
From Life Is Too Short for Work Salad to The “Sad Desk Lunch” is Now Even More Depressing as Employees Return to the Pandemic-Era Office to this older (not-entirely-comedic) video, Sad Desk Lunch: Is This How You Want to Die?, the toxic drive for productivity (or to appear productive) is dangerous.
The problem isn’t salad, but dining at one’s desk while continuing to work through lunch. We know the continued sitting is bad for physical health. The lack of socializing (even for introverts) and inability to take cognitive breaks from labor (and physical breaks from the workplace to get fresh air) are bad for mental health.
None of this is new. Workers’ fears of being replaceable and the corporate message of being a “company man” or “company woman” have been around for a long while. And now, there’s an overwhelming uncertainty as we struggle through a third summer of COVID and into inflation and a prospective recession. (Sorry, this isn’t the usual chirpy Paper Doll topic!)
Of course, if there’s been one positive of the these past 2 1/2 years, it’s that workers are no longer willing to be taken advantage of. I’m sure you’ve noticed that there are fewer cashier lanes open in stores, and most restaurants have signs on the front door, warning patrons that they are short-staffed. While I don’t want to get political, I completely agree with this tweet:
Periodic reminder: there is no labor shortage. There is a shortage of jobs that treat workers with dignity and an excess of corporate greed.
— Robert Reich (@RBReich) June 10, 2022
CONQUERING TOXIC PRODUCTIVITY FROM THE TOP DOWN
The tweet’s point is apt, but the question becomes, how can we maintain healthy productivity in the face of corporate greed?
In the middle of the 20th century, that was a role filled by unions. Now, productivity will be controlled in three ways: by governments setting policies for the betterment of society, by companies recognizing their long-term self-interest in treating employees better, and by individuals either working from within to change company culture or leaving for different workplaces or starting their own businesses.
(Full disclosure: A little more than twenty years ago, I left a toxic industry, and a particularly toxic workplace, and became a professional organizer. The impact on my physical and mental health was an absolute net positive. But, of course, becoming self-employed is not a panacea for everyone, as we’ll discuss in greater detail in next week’s post.)
Japanese efforts to counter Karōshi were iffy at best; they mandated that employees took their vacation days and set corporate office lights on timers to go off at 10 p.m. And, like the TikTok example, they shortened work hours on the last Friday of some months, but it turns out this was more of a marketing effort to get workers to use their off hours to shop!
So what might actually work?
Curtailed Office Hours and Remote Work
You may have seen on the news last week that 70 companies of varying sizes, from mom-and-pop restaurants to corporate entities, in the United Kingdom are testing 4-day workweeks this summer. Like the TikTok example with a token carving away of two hours, these blue-collar and white-collar workers will be paid for their usual (generally, 40) hours per week, but will only have to show up for 80% (so, generally 32 hours); in most cases, the same level of productivity will be expected.
On the one hand, this will give parents the opportunity spend more time with their children, and all workers the chance to make medical appointments and attend to other life necessities. On the other hand, if workers are on-site (whether in offices, restaurants, or stores), they’ll lack the appealing flexibility of work-from-home jobs that became so popular during the earlier stages of the pandemic.
And the research does overwhelmingly show that WFH office workers did not need micromanaging and were as, or more, productive than when they were in the office. Indeed, an Owl Labs study found that, “On average, those who work from home spend 10 minutes less a day being unproductive, work one more day a week, and are 47% more productive.”
That said, there are people who missed the camaraderie of the office and the transitional headspace of commutes. Remote work is one way to improve working satisfaction and defuse the toxic productivity bomb, but it isn’t a solution for everyone.
Better Work/Life Boundary Expectations
In 2016, France took a different approach. Recognizing that the digital, always-on era means that office employees can’t achieve “work/life balance” if there’s increasingly little daylight between their “work obligations” and their actual lives. So, France amended its labor laws such that in any company of 50 employees or more, you cannot email an employee after official work hours.
BOOM!
French Café Photo by Stephanie LeBlanc on Unsplash
Imagine leaving work, going to a café, and not having to be bothered about work until the next workday!
This “right to disconnect” rule isn’t the only thing France has done to improve quality of life. All workers get 30 paid vacation days a year and 16 weeks of fully paid family leave. For comparison, the United States has no nationally guaranteed paid vacation policy and no national policy guaranteeing any paid family leave. Just saying.
Oh, and in case you didn’t make it to 1:48 into the video at the top of this post, France is second only to the US in terms of productivity (GDP per hour worked).
A year after France created this right to disconnect, Italy did the same, and then Spain! In 2018, Belgium followed suit, announcing that 65,000 federal civil servants would no longer have to answer calls or emails from their bosses outside of working hours. Portugal passed a labor code banning employers from pestering employees during their “rest period” except for emergencies, and this applies to both office workers and remote workers. Managers who breach the policy can be fined!
Oh, and last year? Ireland instituted a right to disconnect rule applying to all employees. Your boss can’t contact you by email, phone, or text during your off hours.
Does your workplace (or nation) have any policies that ameliorate the tendency toward toxicity? Please share in the comments, below.
Next week, we’re going to continue this series by delving more deeply into what we, individually, can do to shut down personal tendencies toward toxic productivity and reverse productivity dysmorphia. We will examine:
- Healthy productivity strategies
- Ways to unplug from work and from a sense of obligation to do rather than just be
- Beneficial habits and routines
- A reading list for seeing yourself, and what you accomplish, in a more wholesome way.
Cool and Colorful Desktop Solutions to Organize Your Workspace
June is odd. In much of the county, school has let out (or soon will) and both kids and teachers have been set free. New graduates are gearing up to start their first jobs, while some workplaces have started to shift to summer hours or half-day Fridays. It’s already in the 90°s for many of us, and mojo is in short supply, but the bulk of us aren’t getting summer vacation.
I have a short series coming up soon about lack of motivation, burnout, toxic productivity, productivity dysmorphia, and ways to beat the psychological obstacles to getting organized and staying inspired. But today, we’re going to look at something a little more lighthearted. Sometimes, a little retail therapy (even just via window shopping) can improve our moods and make us a bit more motivated to tackle our stuff, tasks, and spaces.
So, here are a few of the products I’ve seen lately that made me pause and go, “Hmmm.” Be sure to jump into the comments and let me know what you think!
MOFT INVISIBLE LAPTOP STAND
Sometimes, minimalist products can maximize results.
Whether you’re working at your desk at HQ, from your home office or kitchen table, on an airplane, at a picnic table in the sunshine, or in the corner coffee shop, the ergonomics of your workspace setup is important. When you have a permanent desk, it’s easy to arrange for a monitor riser so that your screen is at the right height, but portable risers can be heavy and inconvenient, and working while mobile can bring unexpected miseries. Wouldn’t it be nice to have something lightweight and easy to maneuver?
Enter Moft, maker of device accessories. They state, “Most productivity accessories are rigid, bulky and heavy-eeping you tied to a specific location. We wanted to create something flexible, functional, and non-intrusive that goes everywhere we go, allowing us to be productive anywhere life’s adventures take us.”
MOFT’s Invisible Laptop Stand is hard to describe but quick to impress. When flat and not in use, it’s ridiculously thin at only 0.1″ thick. It’s constructed out of “vegan” leather (didn’t we used to call that vinyl?) and heavy-duty fiberglass.
When flat, you’d barely notice it, but once attached to the bottom of your laptop (with residue-free adhesive) and adjusted to either of the two possible angles, the 3-ounce stand supports up to 18 pounds of laptop weight.
With built-in magnets, you can easily raise your laptop to the right height in a snap. There are two elevation angles to maximize your comfort. Use the “high-lifting” mode when you are sitting, and raise your laptop 3 inches (at a 25° angle); if you’re using a standing desk or working at a counter, consider the “low-lifting” mode of 2 inches to raise your laptop to a 15° angle.
Since it’s lightweight, portable, and (usually) attached to your laptop, there’s no need to create other space in your bag to accommodate it and you won’t have to worry you’ll forget or misplace it.
The Invisible Laptop Stand comes in Silver, Space Grey, Jean Grey (like the character from X-Men), Wanderlust Blue, Sunset Orange, Cool Grey, and Jet Black. (And yes, if you click through the photos at the site, you can see that all those greys really are different.) There are also limited-edition versions, sold two-for-the-price-of-one, in Pink (shown below) and Gold, sold only in the US.
The adhesive is residue-free and can be removed and reapplied (or attached to different computers) up to half a dozen times.
The MOFT Invisible Laptop Stand can be used with laptops measuring between 11.6″ and 15.6″. However, they don’t recommend using it with laptops that have vents on the bottom surface, as the stand would block airflow. For users with laptops with bottom vents, they recommend their non-adhesive version (available only in Silver and Space Grey). Because it doesn’t stick to the back (bottom) of your computer, setup in a twinge slower, but still easy, and works with computers measuring 11.6″ to 16″ (with the exception of 14″ MacBooks, which have little rubber feet).
The adhesive versions of the MOFT Invisible Laptop Stand are $24.99; the non-adhesive versions are $29.99. They are sold directly at the MOFT site; Amazon sells them at the same price, but has a very limited availability of colors.
For those using a multiple-device workspace, note that MOFT also makes stands for tablets and phones.
SPECTRUM WALL HANGER
Are you at the point in your year where you really wish you’d invested in a full-sized wall calendar for planning big-picture projects, but you can’t justify the expense of wasting half a year of calendar pages? Or, if you know there are undated wall calendars, you may be uninspired by them.
Poketo’s Spectrum Wall Planner may be just what you need to brighten your office and your mood.
Each of the twelve pages in this poster-sized wall planner looks like it has made friends with the color schemes at Pantone. (Need a refresher? Read Ask Paper Doll: Should I Organize My Space and Time With Color?) The pages are undated, so you can start planning with your summer months and continue on through to next spring.
While I’d be inclined to post two months simultaneously (this month and next month), Poketo encourages users to decorate your walls with anywhere from 4-12 planner pages to make this a more powerful long-term planning tool. You can use any poster hangers or adhesives you have available, though they do sell an Acrylic Poster Hanger for $32. (At that price, obviously, hanging only one or two pages concurrently would make more sense that a 12-month set.)
The 12 monthly pages each measure 30.0″ x 20.6″ and are made of FSC-Certified tree-free paper to be gentler to the environment. (Unfortunately, the site does not reference whether the paper is made from stone or other materials.)
The Spectrum Wall Hanger is $48. (To be clear, this is not a reusable or dry-erase product; it’s one-and-done, so only invest if you’re craving bright colors to brighten your space.)
Poketo also carries a line of tree-free Geometric Sticky Notes in “Warm” and “Cool” tones for $8 per set to help theme or code your wall planner. The 5″ x 5″ notes sets come with 15 notes per shape and 60 notes per pad.
CABLE WRANGLER
Longtime readers of the Paper Doll blog know that I love magnetic things. Way back in 2014, I sang the praises of the MOS system in Paper Doll’s Cable Conundrums & the MOS: Magnetic Organization System.
I still use two, a silver aluminum version at my desk to match my Mac products (now silver and purple) and a white plastic version at my bedside, to ensure that when I unplug a lightning (or other) cable from a device, I don’t have to go searching for where it’s squiggled itself away. I loved that it worked horizontally or vertically, and that the price was reasonable.
Sadly, the MOS is no more. Sewell, the company that originally manufactured it no longer lists it, and Amazon, Apple, and all of the other stores that offered it as a solution to cables and cords running amok show it to be unavailable. Sigh. However, while I preferred the triangular, space-age version, I have found a potential replacement in a more parallelogramatic, domed form (3.24″ along each side of the square base).
Smartish offers four colorful versions of the Cable Wrangler magnetic cord organizer, and it operates pretty much in the same way as MOS, but more colorfully.
The squat magnetic base is stable and sits neatly on a desk, kitchen counter, bedside table, or gaming station. It comes in one of four cloth-covered designer versions: No. 2 Pencil Grey, Lightly Toasted Beige, Teal Me More, and I’m Blushing. The grey is perfect for that back-to-school collegiate look, while the beige says, “Nancy Meyer-directed movie starring Diane Keaton or Meryl Streep, set on a California or New England beach,” or what GenZ and the Millennials are calling the “Coastal Grandmother” aesthetic. Of course, the pink-toned I’m Blushing was designed specifically for Paper Doll.
Cables stay put due to magnets, but if your particular cable isn’t feeling very “attractive” (that’s Smartish’s joke, if you don’t like it), you can use one of the three (included) magnetic “collars” (similar to the ones MOS had) to help improve the magnetic attraction and keep the cable stuck to the Wrangler. See it in action, below.
The Smartish Cable Wrangler is available at the Smartish site for $19.99, or with a 6-foot lightning cable and two-port wall charger for $39.99. For those who prefer to shop via Amazon Prime, all versions are $24.99. (Amazon also sells the Cable Wrangler with a cable and wall charger for $39.99.)
MUTESYNC: A MUTE BUTTON FOR YOUR VIDEO CALLS
“Hey, whoever’s dog is barking, can you mute yourself?”
“You’re on mute!”
“You’re still muted!”
Thanks to the pandemic, we’ve been in a Brady Bunch-boxed video conferencing mode since 2020, but doesn’t seem like any of us are getting much better at remembering to mute and un-mute. What we all need is the equivalent of that old Staples’ “Easy Button.”
Well, the folks at MuteSync came up with exactly that, an Easy Button for muting/un-muting yourself and for prompting you to pay attention when you aren’t quick to do the right thing.
Instead of rushing your hand to the mouse or touch-screen to wake up the display, make your command icons visible, and click them to change your status, just tap the big, old button on your desk. BAM! MuteSync took their idea to Kickstarter, and it was a huge success! (I mean, of course it was. Seriously, how often do you say/hear “You’re on mute!” in a week?)
When you push the mute button (or even when you mute and unmute from your video meeting platform), the MuteSync mute button light changes! (And, duh, it mutes you.)
MuteSync buttons sync with Zoom, Google Meet, Microsoft Teams, Whereby and (with some hiccups) Discord; as of yet, there’s no love for Butter (my favorite under-appreciated video conferencing app).
Both Mac (from MacOS 10.10 (Yosemite) upward) and Windows (7.7 and above) are supported. Note that if you are using one of the conferencing platforms in the browser, MuteSync only supports Chrome and Brave, not Safari. Also, it does not work with phones or tablets, at least not yet. (But, honestly, finding the mute button on a phone or tablet is even harder, so they need to get on that!)
MuteSync requires the installation of a free, downloadable app, and the button connects to your computer (or hub) via an included USB-C cable.
Tapping the button toggles your mute on and off, and changes color to alert you (and anyone in your workspace) that you are muted (or, yikes!, not muted).
MuteSync users get the “Easy Button,” but also get an extra bonus, a free virtual mute button that lives in the menu bar at the top of the Mac or in the Windows system tray. The virtual button stays in sync with whatever’s going on with your conferencing platform, so if you’ve hit the mute button in Zoom, or tapped the MuteSync mute button, or even if the host has muted you (don’t worry, I’m sure she muted everyone but the speaker, so don’t take it personally!), the virtual button will work in lockstep.
The durable plastic MuteSync mute button is 2.4″ square and 0.4″ high, taking up minimal desk space. The bottom has a rubber pad to ensure that it grips the desk tightly and doesn’t go sliding around.
Because different people have different ideas of which colors mean on and off, you can customize the colors and brightness levels of the button’s eight LED light options.
You’ll still have to train your kids, your spouse who acts like a kid, and your exuberant pets so they understand which colors mean they should “shush”. And, if you’re like my peeps on my Friday night professional organizers call (you know who you are!), you may have to train your kitties to avoid stepping on the buttons when they think they’re the stars of the show.
Take a peek at the MuteSync video, and surf around the website, which has a variety of support videos and is written by folks with a fun, goofy sense of humor.
The MuteSync button is $49 at their website, as well as at Amazon.
While this is great for conferencing, I periodically have to record videos on Zoom, and I’ve got a horrible habit of narrating to myself (not-quite under my breath) when I have to switch from video to screen sharing, and when I have to pause in between steps. Yes, editing would allow me to deal with all of that, but I’m not always so technologically savvy (or inclined) with video editing; being able to quickly hit “mute” before before doing any fancy clicks would save me quite a bit of frustration.
What do you think? Could you use a portable, practically invisible, laptop stand? An attention-getting calendar? A fashion-forward cable organizer? An Easy Button to mute and un-mute your video calls?
Please share in the comments and let me know what you think, and what features or colors you wish had been included?
Ask Paper Doll: Do I Really Need A Safe Deposit Box?
This is part of a recurring series of Ask Paper Doll posts where you can get your burning organizing questions answered by Paper Doll, a 20-year veteran professional organizer and amateur goofball.
Dear Paper Doll:
I finally feel like a grown-up. I’ve read your blog long enough to know what papers I’m supposed to have. I’ve learned not to put things awaiting action on the front of the fridge, and how to put away my financial files. But my Boomer parents keep telling me that I should have a safe deposit box. Do I really need one? Can’t I just buy a home safe? And if I do need one, what should I put in it that I can’t just keep in my files or my wallet?
Signed,
Boxed-In About Adulting
First, I’m glad to know that readers are paying attention to the advice I give in posts like How to Create, Organize, and Safeguard 5 Essential Legal and Estate Documents and The Professor and Mary Ann: 8 Other Essential Documents You Need To Create. (And yes, trade in the fridge door for a Tickler File and you’ll be much more productive.) You have all the prerequisites for a degree in adulting, so consider this topic an elective.
Let’s start with the basics, whether you even need (or should want) a safe deposit box. This is one of those issues that depends on your life and lifestyle.
Safe Deposit Boxes Photo by Tim Evans on Unsplash
CONSIDER GETTING A SAFE DEPOSIT BOX IF:
You want a completely private location in which to store and review your documents or possessions.
You want to keep track of where your vital documents are located and want them all in one central location, perhaps because you change apartments or living situations (in the same community) with frequency and don’t want to worry about the safety of these items.
You want your loved ones to have easy access to important documents even if you are unavailable (traveling, ill, etc.) and have designated a Power of Attorney or have arranged to have a trusted co-renter of the box.
You want to protect your important documents (and possibly other possessions, such as fine jewelry, coin collections, medals, photographs, and written or photo/video home inventories for insurance purposes) from theft, fire, flood or natural disaster. But remember, you still have to insure valuables, and there’s no guarantee the bank won’t be burgled or burned down.
You have family heirlooms and precious documents that are too fragile or delicate to be left in the open in a home where children, pets, and circumstances could cause damage.
You are concerned that if a fireproof home safe is light enough for you to take with you during a disaster, it would also be portable enough for thieves to carry away into the night. Also, you recognize that they keys or combinations to home safes are much easier for thieves to crack than getting through brick-and-mortar bank security.
Stock Certificate Image by pictavio from Pixabay
So, maybe you’ve got stock certificates, Great Grandma’s diamond earrings, a collection of gold coins, or a bunch of rare baseball cards. Banks have video cameras and alarm systems, fire-protection and sprinkler systems, and high-tech locks; the vaults in which the safe deposit boxes are ensconced are reinforced and secured, designed to withstand not only bandits but natural disasters like wildfires, floods, tornadoes and hurricanes. Do you need or want that level of security?
SKIP GETTING A SAFE DEPOSIT BOX IF:
You relocate cities with frequency, whether due to work, family, academic, or volunteer obligations.
You aren’t sure you’ll be able to afford the ongoing safe deposit box rental prices. (Yes, you can just remove the items from box, but why start a system unless you’ve got a plan for keeping up with it?)
The main things you’d keep in a safe deposit box are things you might need to access quickly and urgently. Banks are closed on Sundays, most of Saturdays, evenings, and holidays. During the first year of COVID, many branches had limited hours, and some closed altogether, directing patrons elsewhere. You can cash a check at a bank branch down the street; you can’t retrieve items from your box at Branch A by going to Branch B.
You prefer to live off the grid and don’t want “The Man” to know where you are or what documents you possess.
The documents you’d keep in the safe deposit box would be copies, not originals, and you’re comfortable with scanning documents to the cloud or to a flash drive or hard drive. (If you’re not that worried about fire, flood or theft and have few vital documents and no collections, you may be willing to chance the cost of replacement fees.)
If any of these apply to you, a portable, fireproof, waterproof safe might satisfy your needs. However, as noted above, they can be stolen or safe-cracked. Be clear on your own situation.
WHAT YOU SHOULD/COULD KEEP IN A SAFE DEPOSIT BOX
Silver Safe Deposit Boxes Photo by olieman.eth on Unsplash
Your safe deposit box is a good place to store difficult (but not necessarily impossible) to replace items that you don’t need to access often.
- VIPs — Keep the originals of your very important papers specific to someone’s status as a human, like: birth certificates, adoption papers, marriage licenses, divorce decrees, citizenship papers, and death certificates. Consider keeping your Social Security card in your safe deposit box, too. (Either way, never, ever keep your Social Security card in your wallet! If it’s stolen, it’s like losing a one million dollar bill in terms of the potential for identity theft.) These documents can be replaced, but not quickly or without cost.
- Military records and discharge papers — for example, DD 214s. These documents may be required when applying for post-military jobs and for getting veterans-related benefits. If you’re not job-hunting or the veteran has not just passed away, quick access isn’t likely to be needed and a safe deposit box is a great, secure location.
- Copies (but not the originals, and not the sole copies) of your will, Power of Attorney, and Healthcare Proxy (Medical Power of Attorney) documents.
- The deed to your house and any other property you own. Similarly, it can be helpful to store settlement papers, property and title surveys, and other real estate documents you don’t want to lose in a household kerfuffle.
- The titles to your vehicles, boats, planes, space shuttles, etc.
- Paper certificates for any stocks or bond you own, including US savings bonds. Most stocks and bonds are held electronically these days, so don’t worry if you don’t have the certificates. (Digital shares are called book-entry shares; they aren’t fancy and calligraphied, but it’s easier to keep track of them.)
- A printed or digital home inventory. This may be as simple as a spreadsheet or as detailed as a combination video and electronic documents. You’ll want multiple copies kept safe in case you need to file a claim with your homeowner’s or renter’s insurance policy.)
- Printed or digital copies of important documents for your business, including contracts and other vital records.
- Any documents you consider private and/or sensitive that you wouldn’t want your kids, neighbors, houseguests, cleaning service, or other random people to find. This could be copies of a deposition from a divorce, ugly correspondence you are keeping as legal proof, or anything that would make for a juicy Lifetime movie of the week.
- Jewelry and collectibles — BUT ONLY IF THEY ARE INSURED! The FDIC doesn’t insure the contents of your box; that’s your responsibility. Don’t plan on keeping your entire jewelry collection in a bank’s vault unless you are the queen of a small nation. Just store pieces you wear on very special occasions or those you’re saving for the next generation.
- Family keepsakes you want to protect from toddlers, pets, or other potentially damaging sources.
- Any other documents or small items that would be hard or expensive to replace, and for which the bank seems safer than your own living space.
- Hard drives and/or flash drives, with mountable backups of your computer or important data.
WHAT YOU SHOULD NEVER KEEP IN A SAFE DEPOSIT BOX
- Large amounts of cash — Sometimes, it’s all about the Benjamins, but not when you’re looking at a safe deposit box.
I get it; the bank already has tons of cash lying around, so why wouldn’t it be smart to keep all your money hanging with its little green friends? There are a few reasons.
First, your cash won’t be earning any interest, and even if we weren’t experiencing an inflationary period, you’re wasting the incredible opportunity value of compound interest!
Second, as I noted, safe deposit boxes can’t be accessed on weekends, holidays, or after hours, so you’ll be limited as to when you can lay your hands on your cash. If you’ve got this much cash and want to keep it so liquid that you’re not willing to invest it in stocks, bonds, mutual funds, CDs, or retirement funds, at least keep it in a savings or checking account you can access, 24/7, with a debit card or transfer from online banking!
Third, hard, cold cash (and any other assets) that you keep in a safe deposit box (rather than a bank account) won’t be protected by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corp., nor covered under FDIC rules. Deposit cash in your bank account and it’s insured up to $250,000 per depositor per bank. However, plunk cash into in your safe deposit box and it isn’t insured at all!
Yes, currency in your safe deposit box is less likely to catch on fire, get stolen, or be accidentally donated than if you stuffed it in your mattress. But there’s little worse you can keep in your box.
- Your will — What’s possibly worse that keeping cash in your safe deposit box? Keeping the only legal copy of your will. Unless you’ve arranged for a co-renter, someone with signature access to the box and who knows where the key is, your family will be out of luck if you pass away.
Last Will and Testament Photo by Melinda Gimpel on Unsplash
Your loved ones would have to secure a court order to access the will and other contents of the box, and that requires the costly services of an attorney. Your attorney should keep the official copy, and other copies can be kept on file at home, with your executor, and/or in the cloud. While we’re at it…
- Original, sole copies of vital documents that your family might need if you become incapacitated — If you’re the only person with access to your safe deposit box and you have not designated someone as having Power of Attorney (or stored the only existing copy of the Power of Attorney paperwork in the box), lack of access to originals of your living will/medical directives and other life or end-of-life instructions could create a nightmare.
- Your passport, if there’s ANY chance you’ll need it urgently — Do you (or might you) work for a company that will require you to go abroad on a moment’s notice? Are you an international spy? (OK, I know, you can’t tell me if you are.) You probably figure that you would know if you’d ever need your passport urgently.
But trust Paper Doll; just because you’ve never needed your passport urgently in the past, doesn’t mean there aren’t a number of reasons you might in the future.
Back in February 2020, in Paper Doll on Narwhals, Fake News, and How To Get a REAL ID, I explained that by the 4th Quarter of 2020, everyone would need a REAL ID (driver’s license with star logo or a passport) to fly, or to enter federal buildings (to give testimony or participate in legal procedings in a federal courthouse) or nuclear facilities. (Hear that, Homer Simpson?)
Due to COVID, that date has been pushed a few times, and is now rescheduled to May 3, 2023.
Maybe you’ve never used your passport before, or perhaps never used it without planning a trip 6 months in advance. But is it possible that you’ll have your wallet stolen the week before a domestic trip and your passport will be your only alternative?
Or might you need to enter a federal building (for perfectly legal, rational, wouldn’t-mind-being-seen-on-the-news-doing-so reasons)? Could an elderly relative get injured while on vacation in Europe or your college-age kid get sick while on Spring Break in Jamaica and you’d have to fly internationally at a moment’s notice? Consider the possibilities before putting your passport in the box.
- Uninsured valuables — Yes, your jewelry and collectibles are probably safer at the bank than in your rental apartment, house, or nursing home. But make sure you notify your insurance company so they attach a value-appropriate rider to your homeowner’s or renter’s policy.
- Spare keys — Dude! If you lock your keys in the car or lock yourself out of the house, it’s probably not going to be during banker’s hours! Think of the person you trust most in the world; now ask yourself if your mother (or MY mother) would trust that person. If you’d trust them to drive your car or babysit your kids, that’s a good indicator of someone to whom you can give a spare key.
- Anything illegal — You shouldn’t need Paper Doll to tell you this, but don’t put stolen goods, fireworks, drugs, toxic or hazardous substances, or anything that’s a no-go with the law.
HOW TO GET A SAFE DEPOSIT BOX
Before you rent a safe deposit box, figure out everything you’re going to want to keep in it. Gather everything up and lay it out someplace safe from the prying, sticky hands tiny humans (or furry friends), like on your dining table or in the guest room.
Knowing how much you have will help you determine how large a box to get. Rental rates of vary by size, as well as by bank or credit union, region of the country, and other factors, and can range from as little as $20 to several hundred dollars per year, so don’t “over-rent” on the space you need.
Box depths are standard (generally about 18-22 inches), but height and width dimensions vary. The smallest boxes are usually 3″ x 5″, but unless you have very few documents, you’d have to roll your papers to make them fit. Medium boxes range from 3″ x 10″ to 10″ x 10″. The largest safe deposit boxes in consumer banks and credit unions tend to be about 15″ x 15″, though larger specialty boxes can be arranged at banks that cater to clients who have large financial holdings.
Select a bank branch convenient to your home or work. Don’t quibble over a few dollars if you’ll have to schlep across town. Consider when you’ll want to access the box, either for retrieval or for putting items in.
Ask about policies and fees. What are the key replacement fees? Charges for drilling boxes if keys are lost? (Safe deposit box keys are TINY! Put them somewhere safe and where you’ll remember to find them!) Is there comfortable (or any) seating available in the vault, in case you need time to go through the contents of your box and need to sort documents?
Think carefully about whether you want to share access with a co-renter, like your your spouse, parent(s), adult child(ren), business partner(s) or friend(s). You can’t just designate someone as a co-owner and give them a key. They’ll have to sign the signature card and show photo ID both at the time of rental and to gain access.
Remember, if you don’t have a co-renter, your Power of Attorney designee can act on your behalf for financial and other urgent matters and can access the box for you, but PoA designations cease upon your death. Eventually, the executor of your will can gain access (depending on the probate and estate procedures of your state), but this can be a lengthy process. If your possessions and documents are relatively simple, you’re probably better off naming as co-renter someone (like Paper Mommy) in which you can place great trust.
Make an appointment to rent and “move into” your box. Be prepared to fill out some forms, sign a lease agreement, and pay for the initial rental term. Make sure co-renters are available to come to the appointment as well.
Bring your photo ID. Co-renters? Samesies!
Bring the items you wish to store. Before you leave the house or office, create an inventory list, and bring a copy of the list with you. As you place the items or documents in the box, check them off your list.
Take a photo of the items in the box. Take a photo and/or adjust your list whenever you add or remove documents or possessions.
Bring gallon-size zip-lock plastic bags for protecting items in case of floods or sprinkler system malfunctions. If your box is high enough, safeguard delicate non-flat items from water damage with plastic food containers. Put a your name and contact information inside the container so that items can be identified as yours in the aftermath of any disaster.
Keep your key somewhere safe and memorable.
Don’t be like my dad. When we emptied out his office, as I described in The Great Mesozoic Law Office Purge of 2015: A Professional Organizer’s Family Tale, we found an envelope with my father’s familiar scrawl in red ink: “This is the envelope for the key to Eva’s safe deposit box in Miami, which we closed.” Eva was Paper Mommy‘s mother; she died in 2001. He would never have been able to find the envelope if the key had been needed, but kept an empty envelope telling us where the key had been!
Even if someone unauthorized has your key, they won’t be able to access your safe deposit box, as proof of identification and signature is required in tandem with a key. Key loss, however, may require drilling of the box — and that can be pricey!
REMINDERS AND CONSIDERATIONS
Possessions can be damaged or stolen. Faulty sprinkler systems, actual fires, floods and yes, even bank robberies, can lead to loss or damage of your items. So maintain an inventory at home of the contents of your safe deposit box, just as you might keep a home inventory of your possessions in the box.
The contents of your box will NOT be available 24/7/365. There’s a reason they’re called bankers’ hours — generally 8a – 5p, Monday through Friday, with some wiggle room on Saturday mornings and occasional late Friday hours. Don’t put something in the box that you might need to access quickly or urgently.
Access to your safe deposit box can be frozen. The IRS can block your access if you’re in a dispute with them. If law enforcement officials (including the Department of Homeland Security) believe you and/or the contents of the box are related to illegal activity (drugs, guns, explosives, or stolen items), a court order can be issued to give law enforcement access to the contents of your box.
Your safe deposit box can be declared “abandoned” — If you stop paying your rental fee, don’t maintain communication with the bank, and nobody in your family or overseeing your estate knows you had a safe deposit box, the contents of the box will eventually be turned over to your state’s Unclaimed Property division. Make sure your loved ones or legal representatives know you have a box, where it is, and the location of the key.
How to Find, Organize, and Delete Your Online Accounts
The morning it was announced that Elon Musk was set to buy Twitter, the word “delete” started trending as account users angrily insisted they would delete their accounts if he took over. While it looks like that sale is on-hold indefinitely, being appalled at the leadership of an online platform is definitely not the only reason someone might want to close an online account.
Unfortunately, it’s neither easy nor convenient to close many kinds of accounts, so today we’re going to examine ways to organize that process.
But first, a history lesson.
BEFORE THE WEB WAS WORLDWIDE
Do you remember your first online account?
I’ve been online since before there was an internet, back in the mid-1980s when we were using USENET on heavy VT-100 terminal emulators with green writing on black screens.
They were slow, cabled, and arranged in rows in grim computer rooms in various basements at my university. By the time I graduated, many students had their own computers, but there was still no internet, and Macintosh SEs were networked in those same dark basement rooms. (If you’re of a certain age, you can still hear those dot matrix printers, can’t you?)
In the 1990s, there came a sort of training wheels era of the internet: AOL and ubiquitous disks in the mail, Compuserv, Prodigy, Delphi, and GEnie (my preferred service provider). You’d warn everyone in your household to stay off the phone, dial-up your local provider number as your modem made that horrible series of screeches and bong-ba-bongs, and then you’d be connected to worldwide random strangers via text-only conversations in “rooms” on specific topics, at least until someone in the house picked up the phone and disconnected you.
HOW DID YOU LOSE TRACK OF SO MANY OLD ACCOUNTS?
None of this was the internet, per se. It was all just protoplasm for what was to come. At this point, you couldn’t bank, pay your bills, fill out a 1099 or sign a contract and return it online. And you definitely didn’t have to worry that someone would deliver a virus that took control of your computer and allows scam artists to demand hundreds of thousands of dollars in bitcoin (or any coin).
Back in the early days of the web, almost nobody except teenagers, new college grads, or an expanding breed of “computer guys” were online. People didn’t take passwords seriously, and while there were the same chain letters and hoaxes as in the real world, the internet didn’t seem like a dangerous place. Grandma (if she’d been at all interested in surfing, which she was not) had no fear of getting scammed.
This was either quaint or the Wild West, depending on your perspective.
People set up accounts, used them for weeks or months or years, and then abandoned them.
Eventually, we hit a new century. Mere months after I started Best Results Organizing in early 2002, someone introduced me to Ryze, a social network designed to connect entrepreneurs. it was less like LInkedIn and more content-rich. Through it, I met friends-of-the-blog Janet Barclay and Felicia Slattery, who were the first people I sought out when I landed at Twitter, six years later. It was at Ryze where I was given the opportunity to write proto-blog posts on organizing, which would become the inspiration for Paper Doll.
Depending on your age, MySpace either seems like something from ancient history or just a little bit ago. If your first online friend was Tom, you’re in the latter camp. Sigh.
Then there was Friendster, Live Journal, LinkedIn, Orkut, and in what future generations will surely consider having been the sign of an impending apocalypse, Facebook. Even that was 18 years ago. We were still three years away from the advent of iPhones, so nobody was trying to access these sites on their flip phones or Blackberries.
And that’s just social media. In the last two decades you’ve probably amassed hundreds, maybe even thousands of online accounts. There are also financial (banking and taxes and investment, oh, my!) accounts, utility accounts, university accounts, professional accounts.
If you want to read the online version of a newspaper or magazine, even one for which you pay to subscribe, you have to have an account.
Do you blog? You probably don’t have just one account to blog; you’ve got to have a WordPress.com account to have a WordPress.org set-up, and if you want to leave comments on other people’s blogs, you’ll want a Gravatar account (or something similar) to prove your identity. And then of course, you have a host account for the real estate on which your blog lives.
Do you shop? Do you read? Do you have insurance?
Have you ever left a review for a restaurant on Yelp or Tripadvisor? Do you fly or stay in hotels? You’ve got accounts!
WHAT’S WRONG WITH HAVING LOTS OF OLD ONLINE ACCOUNTS?
Over the past several decades, you’ve amassed lots and lots of accounts, and with them, passwords. And chances are fairly good that, at least in the beginning, you didn’t do a great job of making sure you used unique passwords.
It may seem like leaving old accounts in place does no harm. After all, it’s just cluttering up some company’s servers, not your computer, right? Wrong.
Deleting unused online accounts is an important strategy for protecting your online privacy and maintaining your security against any misuse of your data. Now, you might think that the bad guys are only interested in trying to hack your busy, important accounts, like Gmail or Amazon. But all those unpopular, semi-defunct, and mostly-dead platforms are prime targets for data breaches.
The bad guys figure (correctly) their hacks of unloved sites will be less noticeable. But then they have your private information that they can then use to pose as you to create new accounts or hack your other accounts.
If hackers know your username/password combination for Napster, they might try to get into your Spotify account and access your payment information. Millions or tens of millions of users of defunct platforms have this “abandoned” information left behind, just tempting online pirates.
So now what?
HOW TO GET RID OF OLD ONLINE ACCOUNTS
There are only three aspects of getting rid of your old accounts, but they can be persnickety.
1) Find your old and abandoned accounts.
This may not be easy, especially if you don’t use an online password manager or have a password book with all of your accounts. You may have created these accounts on computers you haven’t owned for years or decades, and you might have signed up with email addresses you haven’t checked since you could fit into those size 8 skinny jeans.
Treasure Map and Compass by Denise Jans on Unsplash
Here are some possible treasure maps to check for all your old, abandoned accounts:
- Look at the sites you’ve saved in your digital password manager, like LastPass, Dashlane, or OnePassword. Check spreadsheets or password notebooks you created, too. Highlight any old, unused accounts for deletion!
- Review saved logins on your computer. Yes, even though you’re probably not using the same device on which you originally set up accounts 10, 15, or 20 years ago, it’s possible that:
- your browser cache/history was copied over when you migrated computers,
- you received an email from one of these sites in recent years, asking you to read a privacy statement, and clicking on the button in the email took you to the site, and your password manager automatically logged you in, or
- you’ve had another reason to log in more recently than you recall.
If you use Safari, click the Safari menu and navigate to Preferences > Passwords; eyeball the site list for any accounts you’re ready to delete. On Chrome, click on the three dots in the upper right and navigate to Settings > Passwords. If you use Internet Explorer (seriously?), navigate from the top right menu to > Settings > View Advanced Settings > Manage passwords.
If you don’t keep your devices synced to the cloud, be sure to peek around at your phone and tablet browsers’ saved logins, too!
- Check your email. Did you ever create a folder or Gmail tag for “new accounts” or “passwords” or something similar? Go there, sort by sender (so you don’t have to see repeats) and take note of any accounts you definitely want to send to the great beyond.
- Check social media sites that authorize access for you. Twitter, Facebook, and Google let you authorize access to some sites; for example, you can log into Zoom via your Facebook account.
On Twitter, go to your settings and navigate to Account > Security and Account Access > Apps and Sessions > Connected Apps to see all accounts you’ve authorized.
On Facebook, it gets tricky, because they’re always changing the locations of icons, but in general: Click on the icon with your face to get to your profile, and then navigate to Settings & Privacy (see the gear shift) > Settings > Security and Login > Apps and Websites. This will show a list of all the sites you’ve logged into via Facebook; the dates will indicate your last login and make it easier to identify sites to cancel.
On any Google page (like the search page, Gmail, or any of the apps), to get to the Permissions page, click the 3×3 grid icon near the top right corner and then navigate to Account (you’ll see your photo/avatar) > Security > Signing in with Google, and you’ll see any accounts you may want to delete.
Remember, even if you revoke access and don’t let Twitter, Facebook, or Google log into an account for you, that account still exists!
- Search the web for your name and any unique account/user names you’ve ever used. If every account name you’ve ever used is just Jane Smith, you might be out of luck. But if you’ve had a habit of using MotherOfDragons1985 or Hermione&Harry4eva, you may find links to your old account name on publicly accessible and indexed sites, like Reddit.
- Search for your username on privacy or security sites that specialize in showing when something has gone awry. For example, typing your email address into Haveibeenpwned.com (and no, that’s not a typo) or Avast’s Hackcheck will identify if your identity has ever been caught in a breach. If you used an old email address and a throwaway password 20 years ago and don’t use either anymore, you’re safe (and will know to delete that account). If you’ve been caught in a breach with active login credentials, get those changed!
2) Secure and export a copy of your data.
Not every platform or website will let you do this, but the big guys all have plans to help you retrieve-and-leave.
For example, Google Takeout backs up all of your Google-controlled accounts (including Gmail, YouTube comments and videos, calendar, photos, Google Drive items, etc.) into one massive but compressed file and lets you run away with it. (Note, you don’t have to delete your accounts to use Google Takeout, and you don’t have to “take out” all items; you can pick and choose bits of your data.) Takeout can be a little intimidating, so you might want to walk through this Livewire article, first.
On Twitter, go to your settings, then navigate to Account > Download an Archive of Your Data > verify your password > secondarily verify your identify via a code sent to your email or phone. Once you ender the code, you’ll get this screen:
Shockingly, Facebook is the easiest platform from which to export your data! Go to Facebook.com/settings and click “Download a copy of your Facebook data.” Then click “Download Archive.”
That’s all; depending how much data Facebook has collected about you, it may take quite a few minutes, but you’ll get an alert that will prompt you to (once again) click “Download Archive”, and a zip file will download to your computer. (You will be overwhelmed by just how much there is, but if you do delete your Facebook account, you may be glad you saved every contact, conversation, and stupid meme.)
Social media isn’t the only place you might want to export your data. Let’s say you use Mint to track all of your financial information to help you prepare your taxes. To retrieve your information, you can go to Trends, pick a custom range, and separately, under income and under expenses, export your data.
3) Delete your account.
Every account and website will have a different method for canceling your account. As you go through the process, make a list or spreadsheet of the accounts you’ve closed and the date you’ve done it. This will help you (or, in case of an unfortunate event, your loved ones) know where things stand with your accounts.
You can spend your time searching under each tab of a website to try to find out how to delete your account. Often, it’s useful to enter “How do I delete a [platform name] account?” in your favorite search engine. But this won’t necessarily help you if you’ve forgotten a site or account ever existed.
And the truth is, some sites are going to make it as hard as possible to delete your account. This isn’t negligence; it’s a purposeful deceptive design pattern.
TECH SOLUTIONS TO HELP YOU PURGE OLD ACCOUNTS
Online platforms make it super-easy to join a site or open an account, and pretty darned tough to escape.
If you’re feeling overwhelmed getting rid of accounts on your own, or even remembering what accounts to seek, there’s help.
AccountKiller — has been around since 2011, helping online netizens figure out how the heck to escape a website completely. They do this in two ways. First, anytime a straightforward way to delete an account is identified, it’s added to AccountKiller to provide step-by-step instructions to anyone who would like to use them.
Search AccountKiller for an account deletion guide (with links and instructions) via the search bar, or browse their 1300 available guides, broken down by “all,” “popular,” “whitelist,” or “blacklisted.”
Whitelisted platforms are those that make it relatively easy to close your account, sometimes just by clicking a “delete account” button; these sites are coded in white. Some platforms employ those dark patterns discussed in the video above, and you’ll probably have to call and run the gauntlet of phone trees and pushy phone reps in a process designed to make you give up before canceling; these platforms and sites appear in grey. Blacklisted sites make it difficult or impossible to delete your account, but AccountKiller may still be able to help you by providing an email address or direct contact number.
So, whether you want to cancel your Facebook, Amazon Music, Nextdoor, Shipt, or some random dating account, just use the search bar or click on the appropriate link. Up will pop a screen of instructions, which may include any of the following:
- the account information you might need to cancel — at a bare minimum, this should include the login credentials, but depending on the account you’re canceling, you may have to confirm other personal and financial information to prove your identity.
- the link(s) or navigational path to get to where you can cancel an account online; this might involve using settings on your account page, using a web form, emailing to request a cancelation, or conferring via web chat.
- a phone number you may have to call to cancel. (Again, this is designed for them to give you a hard sell or offer inducements to keep you from canceling, so be sure you know what you want the end result to be. Some sites, like SiriusXM will offer you huge discounts to stay; others might guilt-trip you.)
- the exact steps to follow (whether online or by phone) to cancel an account
- charges and phone numbers you may see on your credit card or bank account statement, because some of these companies can be sneaky!
- alternative names by which this particular account might be known.
If you can’t find instructions for canceling, you can click “Submit a Site” and their team will research an escape hatch.
The AccountKiller team is made up of six diligent researchers and authors who just want to help people have better control over their digital privacy. There’s no charge to use AccountKiller; the site appears to be funded by pay-per-click advertising. The site is available in English, German, Dutch, and Spanish, though they ask that all request and site instruction submissions be sent in English.
Just Delete Account is a Just-the-Facts-Ma’am, multilingual account with one goal — finding you the instructions to cancel an account. The site uses a basic color scheme to help you see at a glance how annoying it’s going to be to cancel an account:
If you know the platform where you want to cancel an account, use the search bar. However, if you’re trying to remember all the possible accounts you’ve created, you can scroll down the main page for reminders. It’s just a massive grid of all types of online services with each cell of the grid in one of those four colors, above.
Note, sometimes when an account is marked “impossible,” it means that while you can’t delete an account, you can deactivate it. What’s the difference? All of your data still lives in the account unless you manually delete it before deactivating.
Other accounts are just persnickety. For Facebook messenger, if you logged in with your Facebook account, just delete that account; if you registered using your phone number, there’s no way to delete your account! FYI.
Alternatively, you can go to the All Services page and see a more bare bones list of all of your options. BoardGameGeek and Blue Apron make it easy; Blogger won’t ever let you cancel!
Note, neither AccountKiller nor Just Delete Account do anything of the account deletions for you, and they will not ask you for any personal information.
Have I convinced you to track down and delete your old, unused accounts?
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